The Yushima Tenmangu shrine: the legend of the God of learning.

People praying at the Yushima Tenmagu shrine.

The Ueno area is known for its wide park, the lively Ameyoko market, and the stunning Tōshōgū Shrine. Yet, it also offers another culturally and historically significant landmark: the Yushima Tenmangu Shrine. 

The fact that this temple is not often talked and written about could be particularly intriguing, once discovered that people from all over Japan travel to Ueno just to visit this precise heritage site. This shinto shrine surely is beautiful for its architecture, reconstructed entirely in Japanese cypress wood in 1995 (the appearance dates back to 1478). Beautiful is also the picturesque long bridge that connects two different parts of the shrine and allows monks and those who enter to travel without having to ever touch the ground. However, what truly draws such a large number of people to travel to this shrine every year is the legend connected to it.

Initially dedicated to Ameno-tajikarao-no-mikoto in 458 CE the shrine was later, in 1355, used to worship Sugawara no Michizane (845-903). The first Kami (God, spirit) was a Kami of war, but the change of the devoted Kami established the temple as a landmark strongly connected to scholarship and education. The change of identity of the temple was of significant importance, but did not happen smoothly. In fact, Tenjin, the spirit of Sugawara no Michizane, a renowned scholar of the Heian period (794-1185), was initially perceived as a vengeful spirit and was accused of natural disasters that struck the city of Kyoto. Indeed, according to the legend he had not died in peace, but was convicted of false charges. Despite this fact, over time the memory of his passion for learning became the main characteristic that was remembered of the spirit. This allowed him to become renowned for being the spirit of scholarship and learning. Nowadays, the temple is a popular destination for those who search for guidance and protection in their studies.

Understandably, the legend contributed to the popularity of the temple, which became a temple dedicated to education. Those who aspire to have success in their studies or pass an exam, like the notorious complicated Japanese University entrance exam, travel to this temple to pray. This is the reason why during certain periods of the year in particular, the temple will be filled with students and families that travel from all over the country to ask the Kami to watch over the student and help them succeed. Thousands of wooden tablets called ema are hung in the temple and carry the wishes of countless young Japanese.

Finally, connected to this legend, there are two stories. In fact, if you visit the Yushima Tenmangu shrine, you will notice two things: the beautiful plum trees, and the statues of a cow. 

The first story, narrates that Michinaze used to love plum blossoms so much that he even had a plum tree planted in his residence in Kyoto. He is also said to have written poems about plum trees blossoming. According to the tale, even today the perfume of the plum blossoms is what appeases the Kami of Tenjin. Nowadays, the shrine is also well known for its beautiful over 300 plum trees that bloom between the end of February and beginning of March. 

The second tale connected to the legend is the one of the cow. It has been narrated that Michizane was born June 25th 845 of the Jowa era, the year the ox, and he also had a loyal ox. When he died - which, according to the legend, was February 25th, the day of the ox - his body was transported by the animal. At some point, the animal stopped and refused to move further: that is where it was decided to bury his body. At the shrine, the statue of the cow located near the entrance, is also said to have magical healing powers. In fact, it is a popular belief that cows bring safe childbirth, good health, or improve it. If you are hurting somewhere, you should pet the cow on the same part of your body that needs healing. The cow also has the power to improve your memory if you rub its head, an act performed often by the students. 

The Yushima Tenmangu shrine, not only is beautiful in its architecture, but still stands today as a  key historical landmark and heritage site. Over the centuries, the shrine has accumulated a rich collection of legends, tales and popular beliefs. These traditions continue to influence students’ and visitors' practices, as well as the value still placed on the shrine and on its Kami.