Enoshima, the Ryuren Bell of Love

Inscription of the tale at the bell site.

The love story between the five headed dragon and the maiden from heaven is considered a famous legend and tale from the island of Enoshima, located near the famous city of Kamakura, Kanagawa prefecture. Enoshima (literally “Bay Island”) is a location of great historical significance, but often overshadowed by the far more known Kamakura. Not less beautiful or captivating, Enoshima has numerous local shops and delicious treats that can satisfy curious visitors, both Japanese and foreign. In the small stands and shops along the steep road leading to the main temple, giant seafood rice crackers, typical of the area, and sweets like dango and mochi are sold.

The walk to reach the Ryuren Bell of Love starts from the main temple of Enoshima, the Enoshima Shrine. Once again, the road from there is uphill, but comfortable to walk for all ages. Especially for couples, the opportunity to reach the summit and ring the bell of Ryuren is particularly meaningful. The location is immediately recognizable: thousands of padlocks and an installation with a bell stand on the summit. Everyday, numerous couples ring the bell of love to promise each others’ eternal devotion. Indeed, the legend says, once you ring the bell, you will stay together forever. Padlocks scattered around the area confirm the devotion of the couples.

The Bell of Love is definitely a popular destination, but the folktale behind its installation is rather peculiar. Placed on the top of the hill in 1996, the installation proves the longstanding popularity of the tale that centers on a five headed dragon falling madly in love with a maiden from heaven.

According to the folktale, once upon a time, in the area of Koshigoe lived a cruel five headed dragon who used to terrorize those who lived in the region by creating fires, demanding sacrifices and many other cruel acts. The legend was first registered in the Enoshima Engi (The Illustrated History of Enoshima) in 552. It continues by narrating how the reign of terror of the dragon stopped when a goddess called Benzaiten appeared, and from the sea, together with her, the island of Enoshima was born. The goddess was so beautiful that the the five-headed cruel creature could not help but to fall in love with her. The dragon immediately asked her to marry him, but the goddess refused until the dragon vowed to change his ways. 

According to the legend, when the dragon passed away he became a mountain that is still nowadays part of the landscape: Ryuko mountain. This way, he could eternally watch over his love and it is said that even now the dragon protects Enoshima. Nowadays, the dragon is still worshipped at the Ryukomyojin shrine. In the past, the shrine was placed at the top of Ryuko mountain, but has later been moved to its current location in Kamakura.

This legend and folktale provides a deeper and fascinating understanding of the town of Enoshima. My invitation is to visit the area and imagine the five-headed dragon flying in the sky, trying to conquer his beloved Benzaiten, before passing to the other side and choosing to forever watch over the place where he and the beautiful maiden first met.