Yanaka Ginza and the Kasha Legends

Outside the busy streets of one of Tokyo’s most popular areas, Ginza, known for hosting famous brands’ shops, there is a quieter, less known and very different town: Yanaka Ginza. Such town is not popular for shopping, neither for huge tall buildings, nor the modern profile that characterizes the neighbour Ginza. Yanaka Ginza is famous for something entirely different: cats.

Cats are everywhere in the town, from the rooftops of the shops studded with cats’ statues, to themed souvenirs and numerous cat cafes. While visiting the streets of Yanaka Ginza, it is easy to experience a more local Tokyo, but also dive deeply into a fascinating cat-lover area. Cats are definitely a popular symbol in Japanese culture: a symbol of luck, protection, but also popular figures in Japanese folklore with numerous stories that speak about this charming feline. 

In this short article I will further explore the figure of cats in Japanese folklore. More specifically, I will focus on the legend of the yokai Kasha (supernatural cats), which originated in the 17th century from the convergence of Buddhist legends and local folklore. In this tradition, cats were depicted as creatures attracted to corpses, either to eat them or to control them like puppets. In fact, although cats are often being associated with positive legends and symbols, a few stories contributed to the Kasha symbolizing the opposite in Japanese traditions.

Originally born as normal cats, Kasha are created through the cat’s aging, as well as the lengthening of its tail. This characteristic allows for the development of magical powers. Such knowledge brought in the past numerous families to cut the tails of their cats, to prevent them turning into monster cats. Literally translated as “fire cats” Kasha live in highly populated areas and eat mainly human corpses. This type of yokai is defined as beko-neko (monster cat) and does not have any superpower. The adjective “fire” comes from the Kasha appearing often with lightning or flames, oftentimes during stormy weather. 

As a monster cat that eats human corpses, Kasha usually appears during funeral ceremonies, the perfect moment to quickly steal the remains of the passed beloved. Beside eating the human flesh, Kasha are depicted in some stories as messengers from hell, or as monsters stealing corpses of the evil with the aim to bring them to their punishment. 

To avoid such occurrance, around Japan different strategies are adopted during traditional funerals to trick the Kasha. In the Yamagata prefecture, a fake funeral with a fake body (usually made of rocks) is held before the official one, as a way to reduce the probability of a Kasha taking the real body. In Miyazaki prefecture instead, before the ceremony starts the priest chants these sentences twice as a way to keep away the monster spirits: “Do not be eaten by a baku, do not be eaten by a kasha”. Finally, in Okayama the priest will play a traditional instrument called myohachi to keep the Kasha away.

A traditional folktale about the Kasha is shared here, and I invite you to read it before visiting Yanaka Ginza. Through this story, you will be able to explore the cat dedicated area with a new perspective about this amazing feline. The folktale is called: The case of the chief priest of Yakushiji and is a tale written inside an important Medieval volume, related to Japanese Buddhist traditions and local folklore, the Uji Shūi Monogatari.

Once upon a time there was a priest, that even if he was head priest he believed his rank was humble and was careful not to misuse temple property. He prayed sincerely that when he passed, he would be born into the Pure Land.

One day, old and ill, he realised he had approached his final moment, so he recited the nembutsu (the Namu Amida Butsu) sincerely and without distraction. Yet, to his surprise, instead of being welcomed by Pure Land attendants he was welcomed by the kasha. Desperate, he asked: “Why is this? I did not expect such a thing. For what sin have I brought upon the approach of hell’s messenger?” The Kasha responded: “You borrowed five of temple goods one year ago and have not yet returned them. Due to this offense, this reception by kasha is justified.” The priest replied: “Surely such a small offense should not land me in hell. I shall return the property.” The Kasha carried his cart nearer and waited. The priest then commanded: “Hurry, recite Isshoku Zukkyō!” His disciples were flustered but complied and chanted as instructed. At that moment the bell rang, and the kasha withdrew. He rejoiced, clasped his hands, and said, “Now indeed the Pure Land attendants have come,” and the priest passed away in peace.