Chuzenji lake, Kegon waterfalls and Kappa traditions

Kegon waterfalls, from the viewing platform.

Chuzenji lake.

The Kegon waterfalls and the Chuzenji lake are two of the most famous scenic spots of the city of Nikko, near Tokyo. Nikko is a mountain area well known for its beautiful nature and famous for its picturesque red bridge. Especially in autumn, pictures of Nikko floods social media thanks to the beautiful foliage of its trees.

The lake and the waterfalls are located a walkable distance from each other, allowing visitors to enjoy both views in a short period of time. Chuzenji lake presents itself as a giant lake: it is very hard to catch a complete sight of it from the ground. Some little boats float on the water, attached to the small dock of the lake, some destined to the tourists, and others for private purposes. The beauty of the place can easily make even the most disinterested visitor stop for a few minutes to enjoy its magnificent view, and, in autumn, also of the stunning red and orange leaves that decorate the trees around the lake. 

If the lake appears calm and vast to the eye, the waterfalls look powerful and impossible to grasp in one glance. It is indeed necessary to ride the elevator that brings curious tourists down 100 meters to a designated viewing platform to be able to admire the waterfalls in all their beauty. 

Visiting these two natural heritage sites, closely connected to the element of water, can bring wonders about water-related folklore and tales in Japanese traditions. Japanese culture is strictly connected to nature and its rhythm. It is then no surprise that Japanese traditions are filled with stories related to water and its spirits. 

Here I would like to introduce one of these spirits, a yokai named Kappa. Kappa are one of the most popular characters in Japanese mythology. They appear as an amphibious-humanoid being, as big as a child, and are typical to find in lakes, ponds, rivers and canals. What characterizes Kappa is their weird shaped head: it looks like they carry a small plate on top of it. On the plate Kappa carries water and, according to mythology, if water is spilled from the plate the creature loses strength. Such knowledge is important to remember, especially when combined with other characteristics of Kappa.

In fact, Kappa is often described as a mischievous and sometimes cruel creature that steals and drowns animals and people, especially children, in water. However the yokai is also bound to honor and politeness. It is said that if you bow to a Kappa, it will bow back to you. This is a strategy often used to make the yokai spill water from its plate, weakening the creature. Another way to appeal to a Kappa is to offer them cucumbers that they find especially delicious.

It is likely that the myth of the Kappa, beside the mythical aspect, had as one of its purposes the aim to keep children away from danger. The myth of the Kappa drowning those getting closer to water sources was often used by families to warn children about the danger of lakes and rivers. Sometimes, near lakes or other water places the “no swimming” warning sign includes the image of a kappa, carrying a clear warning.

Here I will offer you a short folktale that presents some classical Kappa motifs, such as mischievous characteristics exhibited against animals, but also politeness and honor. Not in all folktales Kappa are depicted as cruel, showing the mixed nature of this popular yokai.

“Long ago, in a place called Imado by the Sumida River in Edo, there lived a hardworking horse driver named Yohachi.

One morning, as Yohachi went to check on his stable as usual, he saw a kappa about four shaku tall (around 120 cm) trying to pull on his horse’s tail. Thinking that his precious horse was being bothered, Yohachi became angry and entered the stable holding a club.

Cornered by Yohachi, the kappa began to cry and begged for forgiveness.“Please forgive me. I have been bullied by cruel river fish and even lost my place to sleep. I thought of making a trap using a horse’s tail to teach the fish a lesson. I knew it was wrong, but I came here to steal some horse hair,” he said, bowing deeply in apology.

Feeling sorry for the timid little kappa, Yohachi pulled out five or six hairs from the horse’s tail and gave them to him. The kappa thanked him over and over again and happily went home.

Some time later, one day Yohachi found a dirty bag left in the stable. When he opened it, it was filled with many gold coins. Yohachi thought, “That kappa must have brought this as a thank-you gift,” and while imagining the kappa living well, he continued to work hard every day thereafter.”